Rest Day Numero Uno!

Climbing "Life is Sweet" 6c

Today is my third day in Spain, and after two days of climbing jet lagged I am excited to have a rest day to recover and get completely adjusted to the time and way of life. It is so beautiful here, and I am looking forward to exploring a little of the countryside and maybe a couple of the little towns further into the valley. 

Yesterday we went back to the Makinodromo and climbed for the day. The hike in there is so long (over an hour I think) but it is well worth it for the views and the quality of the climbing there. I got on another 6c and got it clean my second go. I got half way through the crux (hardest part) before I fell on my first try, and I worked the moves until I was able to succeed in getting it. Then after a rest and a snack I got on it again and sent it clean. It was very exciting because the crux moves were harder than 6c I think, but the climbing before that, and the length of the climb (it is short compared to the others) make it the grade its at. 

In order to get through the crux, you have to trust some pretty polished feet, and really relax on a slopey pinch. Once you get the slopey pinch, you have to bring your left hip into the wall and get a high left foot to step up and reach a slopey rail with your left hand. Once You have the rail you get a couple of seconds to rest, and then you get your feet up and get a slopey crimp with your right hand and pull up and get your heel on the slopey rail with your left hand. Once you get the heel on there you're locked in and you are able to go for the "thank god hold" that marks the end of the crux. From there you do some laybacks and pull into a small cave to clip the anchors. It really was a stellar route, I really enjoyed the climbing on it (there were a few spots where you could wrap your entire hand around tufas!). 

At the end of the day I got on a 7a+ (5.12a) which is the hardest climb I've ever been on. I got three quarters of the way up the route before I couldn't go any farther. I was leading the route, and am still scared of falling on lead, so there was a move that is very big and powerful, and my head just wasn't ready to commit to it yet. So in the end I came down and will get back on it tomorrow when I go back! I think we are heading back there on Sunday to continue to work the projects we've all got right now. 

Everyone is climbing really well right now. Aaron has sent some more 7b's and Matt sent his 7c+ (5.13a) project yesterday. This makes the 5th of the trip! He's climbing super strong. And I have been climbing harder than I ever have. So it is very exciting to be out there every day, and in such an inspiring setting at that. I really think I could climb here every day and be happy for a long time. We shall see how the rest of the trip goes, maybe I'll never leave! 

We've met some pretty awesome people here so far, and will hopefully have some friends visiting us someday so we can show them where we come from and our own climbing! It is really awesome to come back to the hostel every night and talk to everyone about how their days went while we're all fighting to get our dinners cooked and eaten. The community here is really welcoming, and it feels like we've got a big family of friends already! 

I think it is needless to say that I am really looking forward to the rest of our time here. It has only been three days and it is already incredible! The sun has been out every day, and the climbing is world class. What more than that and some of the people you love around you could you ask for!?