Franken-Cake

At 4:45 a.m Malaga time I got a wake up call from the front desk of Hotel Las Americas. I stayed there the night before my flight left because it was the only way for me to get to the airport on time (aside from sleeping in the airport...). I had just enough time to bring myself to consiousness and check out of my room before I needed to be at the train station (which was just across the street) to catch the train to the airport. The train left at 5:19 and I arrived about 15 minutes later.

I finally found my check in gate, and waited in line for ages before being able to check my baggage and get my boarding passes. From Malaga I flew to Paris, France where I had about an hour to go through passport control and then the opposite end of the airport to my gate. At the gate I was interrogated by the airport officials as to where my luggage had been and who had packed it. I guess they were worried I was some kind of terrorist, although I don't really know where they got that one.

From Paris I had an 8 hour flight across the ocean to Newark, NJ. On this flight it was day time, so I didn't really do much sleeping. I watched a few movies and played some games. I also read a lot in my book. The flight actually went pretty quickly but I was really excited when it was over and I could get out of the cramped seating and move and stretch. In Newark I had to pass through yet another passport control center and then proceed to baggage claim where I would pick up my luggage and go through customs and then check it again to get to my next flight.

Newark is one of the least organized airports I've ever been to, and the people there are very unwilling to help you. I asked one of the women there about the procedure and she acted like these were things I was supposed to know already ( I haven't flown out of the country for 4 or 5 years... how am I supposed to know these things). She was very impatient and entitled, but I got the information I needed and headed down to baggage claim to await the arrival of my things.

After about a half hour they started to load the luggage on the loop, and after about another half hour they stopped. My things never showed up, and I asked another continental associate whether or not they were done with the baggage, which a radio call confirmed. This meant that all of my clothes and all of my gear were still in Paris, not in the U.S. where they were supposed to be. At this point I was on the verge of breaking down because I had already been traveling for over 12 hours, and still had another 4-6 hours to go. The representative told me I had to wait until I got to Burlington to file a claim, so I proceeded through customs, where I had to take a train to the next loading zone, and then promtly go through yet another security check point. Once I made it through there I had to walk clear to the other end of the section to get to my gate, where I was informed that my flight was delayed and I needed to proceed to another gate, which just happened to be at the opposite end where I had originally started.... Good thing I was wearing comfortable shoes.

Finally I was in the right spot, and finally my flight arrived and we left. I was so exhausted that I was out before the plane took off, and had to be awakened by the stewardess as we were landing to put my things away. I got to see a really incredible sunset over the lake and the Adirondaks that nearly made the delay worth it. Once I landed in Burlington I had to wait for over a half hour for someone to come to the Continental desk where I could make my claim for my lost baggage, which then took nearly a half hour because the woman couldn't figure out how to make it go through. In the end I called Cristina a little after 8 and finally made it home around 9. I was in bed by 9:30 and out as soon as my head hit the pillow. Matty got home around 12:30 and it was so nice to wake up with him next to me in our home once again.

Yesterday was Matt's birthday. We decided we'd go out to dinner and I would bake him a cake when I got home from work. So I bought all of the ingredients and spent a couple of hours baking this incredible looking and smelling chocolate cake. I even made the frosting for it. We went out for dinner (Sushi... it was incredible!) and when we got home I went to go and frost the cake. This promptly turned into a disaster because the cake was stuck in the pan, and the one nice thing I was able to do for him on his birthday I felt I had ruined. After a lot of tears, and some broken halves of cake, the Franken-Cake emerged. It was probably the ugliest cake I have ever made in my life, but in the end it tasted better than any I had ever made too. Matt reassured me that he loved it over and over, but I still feel bad that I ruined his cake. I guess looking back on it, it is pretty funny, and we'll definitely have something to remember for his 26th birthday... I just hope the same thing doesn't happen again in the future!

Now it is back to the grind stone of working again. I am so done here at the Howard Center, and I feel almost trapped in this job... hopefully soon I will be able to have something new that actually makes me happy. Until then I work and live for the evenings and weekends when I can be free of this place!

Last day in Spain!

So here I am, hanging out in a hotel in Malaga waiting for tomorrow so I can hop a train to the airport and fly home. Matt and Aaron just left for their 10 hour drive up to Barcelona where tomorrow they will do the same. So now I am just killing time until I can go to bed.

This city, Malaga, is pretty nice. I am in the older historic section, but right across the street is the train station and a very modern mall. We went over there earlier today so I could find out how much the train will cost and what time I can get there in the morning. I have to catch the 5:19 train so I can be at the airport on time for my flight at 7. Then I will travel for the whole day, back in time, and be home around 6:30 in the evening. It will be a long day, but luckily I will be able to sleep all night before I have to get up and go to work on Wednesday.

I am really not looking forward to going back to work. It has been so nice not having the stress of my job in my life the past couple of weeks. I really can´t wait to find a job that I love so I don´t have to feel this way so much. I know that work is work, but it shouldn´t be like this. I shouldn´t dread going in every day, and count the hours until I can leave. I cherrished this time so much, and it went by altogether too fast. Hopefully I´ll be able to take another vacation this fall... We´ll see what happens.

Matt and I sent our resume´s to a teaching organization here called Inlingua. If we are able to get jobs we´d be in Lleida, Spain teaching English in the evenings to spanish students. We would be 1 hour away from 4 or 5 different world class climbing areas, and living in Spain on top of that! We´ll see what happens but we are both keeping our fingers crossed. Maybe by this time next year we´ll be living in Spain! It is so exciting to think of that! I really hope it happens.

At any rate, I have got to go organize my bags and shower and get everything ready for tomorrow. I can´t wait to be home to my own house and my own bed with my Matty. It is going to be awesome!! Yeah boy!

Viejos y puertas (Windows and doors)

Today may be the last day I can update in Spain, so I wanted to write something quick before I head to bed!! We have just one more day of climbing (maybe even just a half day) and then I am heading to Malaga and the boys will head for Barcelona, where we will all fly out on Tuesday. 

We woke up this morning to rain and wind and rather cool weather. None of us were super psyched nor motivated to get going quickly, but eventually we made it out and on our way back to Displomilandia. We all had a project there, so we wanted to see if we could send before leaving. The weather ended up being super nice up there with sun. There was quite a bit of wind though, and the rock was pretty cold! We stuck it out and it is a good thing we did!! 

I warmed up on a 6b I'd done a couple of days ago. I really liked the route a lot, and it was long enough to make a really good warm up route. Then Matty led the 7a I was going to try to climb, called Viejos y Puertas. It was night next to the 7a+ I did a couple of days ago, and looked really cool. I got on it for the first time and nearly flashed it. I got to the crux which is a hard bulge you have to pull on small crimps to get through. I got all the way up to the crimps and got so pumped I couldn't hold on any longer. This meant that I got to take my first fall of the trip! I whipped pretty good there, maybe close to 15 feet or so. Then I pulled up and tried two more times before getting frustrated and asking to be lowered. 

After resting for a while and belaying Matt on another warm up it was my turn to get back on it again. This time I stuck the crux and let out a cry of relief when I reached the big jug that culminates the super hard sequence. The rest of the climb was all about getting high feet, and having a long reach to get to the next set of holds. I really liked it a lot!! The movements were very fun, and the route itself was quite enjoyable! It was also good for me to push to the point of falling. I think that really helps my head a lot, and gives me more confidence on the rock, which will actually help me not fall in the long run. 

Once that was over with Matt and I headed up to the next sector at Displomilandia called La Vida Misma. Matty had a projec there, and got on it when we first arrived. After working out the crux, he ended up sending it on his next go, which was really awesome to watch! He is so strong, and motivated. He is endlessly inspiring to me. It was great to be there with him today to celebrate the send! 

Next I got on another 7a+, this time trying to onsight it. When you onsight a climb it means that you've never tried any of the moves, and don't watch anyone else climb it, and don't get any beta (hints) from anyone around as to how the climb goes. So essentially you walk up to it, and just climb it. I've never onsighted something so hard before, and up until just a couple of days ago had never even climbed something that hard before. I made a valiant effort to make it to the top climbing through two cruxes and into the final one before whipping off because I couldn't make the clip. There were two spanish guys climbing right next to us who were either really impressed, or totally making fun of the fact that I was falling off and still willing to try again. I ended up falling twice, unable to clip before coming back down. I completely worked myself on that attempt, but I feel really good at how high I got, and how close I was to actually onsighting a 7a+. This can only mean good things for my climbing future! 

Anyway, it is late, and I really need to get some rest before tomorrow! I'll see what I can do about posting again, but my next post will probably be from the states after I have returned home!! This trip has been so incredible! I have improved in leaps and bounds over the climbing I've done in the past and it feels really good to be pushing myself as hard as I am. I love climbing so much, and it is so nice to finally be seeing the results of my hard work paying off! 

7a+? Check!

Climbing my first 7a+, Cosas Caseras

Right now I am sitting outside of La Finca la Campana and having a rest day with Matty. We've been climbing a lot, and I am psyched to have a day to relax and catch up on some things that just don't stop even though you're on vacation. Relaxing is nice, and I think we will go for a walk with the Finca dog (Oso) in a bit and maybe take a trek out to the Camino del Rey. Anything is possible on a rest day! 

Thursday was probably the best day I have had yet! We went back to the Buena Sombra crag in Desplomilandia and climbed for a full day. I started off on a nice 6a+ and then got on a 6b. After belaying for a while and hanging around with the boys and some spanish men who were also climbing, I got back on the route I had been working there. It is called Cosas Caseras and is rated 7a+. 

It is a really cool line that starts with a crimpy boulder problem to some slabby moves. You have to balance really well otherwise your feet might pop or you might not be able to hold on with your hands anymore. Once you get through this section though you have some easy climbing to a really good rest before the second crux (hard part) of the route. The crux sequence is really cool because you have to get your feet really high and pull into an undercling that is in the middle of a big bulge. Then you have to cross through to another undercling where you clip and then get your feet under you and throw for a big hold. Once you get this big hold you have to do a bunch of crimpy moves to some really good holds and a nice rest before you  finish the rest of the route. 

I ended up sending it on my third time on the route (first time on Thursday) and am really excited to have finally reached a goal I've had since I first started climbing. For a long time I didn't know whether or not I would be able to climb a 5.12a (7a+) and now that I have, it seems like the only way to go from here is up (no pun intended). I really think I can continue to get better and to consistently send harder routes like that. I just have to keep up with my training and continue to try harder stuff, and eventually it will come to me. 

Yesterday we went to a cave called Poema de Roca, which means Rock Poem in Spanish. It is a really beautiful cave with very aesthetic lines. It was an incredibly hot day yesterday and I am experiencing the joys of being a woman right now, so I had a particularly hard day. I have a difficult time with pushing myself hard when this is going on, and I didn't really climb up to my own expectations. But it is ok,  I think once I get some rest in me today, and get back at it tomorrow and Monday I will feel much better. We'll see what happens. 

Regardless I am very happy with the way this trip has gone. The weather has been perfect, and the climbing has been so great! I really feel lucky to have had this opportunity and to have had Matt here to share it with has made that much better. I look forward to traveling with him a lot more in the future. We are starting to look into moving here to Spain for a year or two and maybe even working out another big trip for something this coming fall. 

Two more days of climbing, and then another day of traveling and then it is back to the real world again. I feel very refreshed after this trip, so hopefully it won't all come crashing down again when I get back to work. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed about teaching in Spain, and hoping it happens sooner rather than later.  

Heat Stroke, and Climbing in the Shade!

View from Buena Sombra, Desplomandia

What a week this has been so far! Saturday we had a rest day, and we actually slept in until 9 and then did some stuff around the place where we're staying. I wanted to take a nap because I was still jet lagged, so I went up to our tent to read and sleep for a while. I knew it would be warm up there, so I opened up all of the flaps and hoped for a breeze every now and then. I don't know how long I slept for, but the sun came in the tent, and was shining on my side for an extended period of time. When Matt came up to see how I was doing, I was massively dehydrated and feeling pretty terrible. On top of that, my face was completely red, and my whole right side burning hot and red as well. I think I got either sun poisoning or heat stroke, and I suffered for the rest of Saturday and most of Sunday before starting to feel better. 

The one good thing about Saturday though was that Matt and I took a hike up to the Poema de Roca cave in the afternoon (we thought that maybe if I got out moving I might feel a bit better). The cave is very impressive with a number of difficult routes that come out it, and a few routes I think I might have a chance at doing. We'll see but I look forward to getting the chance to find out.

I ended up with a massive headache, which wouldn't quit, and then Sunday just felt completely drained, like I needed about 10 hours of sleep. After eating breakfast and seeing how I did, I made the wise decision to rest for another day, and actually had a nice morning with three Irish men who were resting as well. We sat around and drank tea and chatted about the world. They were pretty cool. In the afternoon Matt actually came back to see how I was doing, and we went out for some lunch. We also tried to go grocery shopping, which is difficult here on a Sunday because everything is closed. We weren't too excited about that, but we've been making due. These towns are so small that they don't have ATMs and there are also no credit card machines in any of the stores or restaurants. You have to have cash for everything, which is difficult to get when there are no ATMs. 

Yesterday I woke up and I felt great! I made the decision to start drinking only bottled water because my body wasn't doing well on the tap water, and also I think the rest I got the two days before really helped me to overcome my jet lag and heat stroke. The temperatures are getting pretty warm here, so we decided to try to find some shade. We ended up at this nice crag called Desplomandia, which is a bit of a drive, but high up in this pass and looking out over green lakes (the minerals in the water combined with the sunlight make the water a brilliant green)! It is another beautiful place to climb, which I think will just be the case for the rest of the trip. 

The sector we climbed at is called Buena Sombra, which means Good Shade, and indeed it is great shade! So good we need to wear pants and big puffy jackets to stay warm in between climbs. The coolness is welcome though after climbing in the sun. I think we might be seeking out shade more for the rest of the trip. I sent my hardest climb yesterday, a 7a (5.11d) which was very exciting! I got it on my second go, and thought it was pretty hard for the grade. Everyone who climbed it agreed yesterday that it should probably be rated a 7a+ (5.12a). It was still fun though with some pretty technical movements which I enjoy a lot. 

I also flashed a 6c called Yogur de Coco, which climbed out on a big tufa with a puddle for a jug at the top of it! The hold was so good that it didn't matter that there was a bowl of water waiting for you. 

Today we headed out to the same place. Aaron had to take the day off because his skin is pretty sore, but we did have the company of the British boys we met here at La Finca. They are really funny, and provide great entertainment all day. They climbed with us yesterday as well, and are unfortunately going home to England tomorrow. We'll definitely miss their positive energy, but it has been great to get to know them a bit. The climbing today was pretty fun, and I onsighted two climbs including a 6b+ (5.11a) called Buena Sombre. It ended up being a pretty solid send, and I really enjoyed the whole route. At the top of the climb you had to get up into a humungous undercling inside a tufa, and then climb on crimps for a few meters. The end was a jug haul to the anchor. Super fun route! 

I also got on a 7a+ that I think I will get my next try. I have it all down except for one move. I will definitely get it the next time we go there when I am fresh. I ended up falling at the crux today and biting my lip a little. Its sore, but I think I will make it! We are all looking forward to a rest day tomorrow when we can let our bodies and skin recover a bit. I think we are going to head in to Granada and check out La Alhambra which is a really incredible mosque there. I went there when I was in high school, but I think I will appreciate it a lot more this time around. 

Anyway, things are going great here! I really look forward to getting some more climbing in and sending more hard routes!! It is awesome to see all my training and hard work paying off. I feel really strong, and it is being validated in my climbing!! Crushing!! 

Rest Day Numero Uno!

Climbing "Life is Sweet" 6c

Today is my third day in Spain, and after two days of climbing jet lagged I am excited to have a rest day to recover and get completely adjusted to the time and way of life. It is so beautiful here, and I am looking forward to exploring a little of the countryside and maybe a couple of the little towns further into the valley. 

Yesterday we went back to the Makinodromo and climbed for the day. The hike in there is so long (over an hour I think) but it is well worth it for the views and the quality of the climbing there. I got on another 6c and got it clean my second go. I got half way through the crux (hardest part) before I fell on my first try, and I worked the moves until I was able to succeed in getting it. Then after a rest and a snack I got on it again and sent it clean. It was very exciting because the crux moves were harder than 6c I think, but the climbing before that, and the length of the climb (it is short compared to the others) make it the grade its at. 

In order to get through the crux, you have to trust some pretty polished feet, and really relax on a slopey pinch. Once you get the slopey pinch, you have to bring your left hip into the wall and get a high left foot to step up and reach a slopey rail with your left hand. Once You have the rail you get a couple of seconds to rest, and then you get your feet up and get a slopey crimp with your right hand and pull up and get your heel on the slopey rail with your left hand. Once you get the heel on there you're locked in and you are able to go for the "thank god hold" that marks the end of the crux. From there you do some laybacks and pull into a small cave to clip the anchors. It really was a stellar route, I really enjoyed the climbing on it (there were a few spots where you could wrap your entire hand around tufas!). 

At the end of the day I got on a 7a+ (5.12a) which is the hardest climb I've ever been on. I got three quarters of the way up the route before I couldn't go any farther. I was leading the route, and am still scared of falling on lead, so there was a move that is very big and powerful, and my head just wasn't ready to commit to it yet. So in the end I came down and will get back on it tomorrow when I go back! I think we are heading back there on Sunday to continue to work the projects we've all got right now. 

Everyone is climbing really well right now. Aaron has sent some more 7b's and Matt sent his 7c+ (5.13a) project yesterday. This makes the 5th of the trip! He's climbing super strong. And I have been climbing harder than I ever have. So it is very exciting to be out there every day, and in such an inspiring setting at that. I really think I could climb here every day and be happy for a long time. We shall see how the rest of the trip goes, maybe I'll never leave! 

We've met some pretty awesome people here so far, and will hopefully have some friends visiting us someday so we can show them where we come from and our own climbing! It is really awesome to come back to the hostel every night and talk to everyone about how their days went while we're all fighting to get our dinners cooked and eaten. The community here is really welcoming, and it feels like we've got a big family of friends already! 

I think it is needless to say that I am really looking forward to the rest of our time here. It has only been three days and it is already incredible! The sun has been out every day, and the climbing is world class. What more than that and some of the people you love around you could you ask for!? 

Espana es Dulce!

Matt and I at Makinodromo!

The title of my blog for today, for those of you who don't speak Spanish, means Spain is Sweet! After delays, near missed flights and very little sleep, I finally made it to Spain, and found my baggage and met up with Matty and Aaron yesterday (Wednesday). I don't think I've ever been more relieved to see someone I know more than I was when I walked out the exit of the baggage claim and saw Matt standing there waiting. It was so great to see him, and the three of us have been having a great time since I got here. 

The drive to the Finca La Campa (the hostel we're camping at) was so beautiful. The scenery here is so breathtaking. I feel like I am constantly looking around in awe that I am here. It feels almost like a dream. We are camping up on top of a hill, surrounded by grey and orange cliffs on the horizon. We wake up and walk out of the tent, and there are views that people pay millions of dollars to have. We've got them for a mere 9 euros a night. Along with the campsite, we have access to all of the common areas including the kitchen and showers (which are both key). Another great thing is that there is internet! So I will be able to update often!! 

Last night I didn't sleep very well despite being exhausted from the trip over here. I think it was the combination of being in a new place, and also the dogs and other animals that decided to make themselves heard in the valley throughout the night and morning. It will be interesting to see if this is something that happens every night. 

Today we went to a cliff called the Makinodromo. There are two ways to get there. The first way (and apparently more legal way) is to park in a communal lot and hike in and across the train tracks, to a trail that then takes you to the top of a mountain, across a ridge line to the top of another mountain and down into a valley where you then have to hike up the majority of another mountain to get to the cliffs... This all supposedly takes between 30 and 60 minutes according to the guidebook (but when Aaron and Matt tried to do it before I got here, they hiked for longer and didn't find it). The other way to get there, which during the weekend is guarded by la policia and ok during the week, is to park and hike to the train tracks, and then walk through three tunnels to the trail head where you then hike a nice 30 minutes up to the crag. This was our chosen route today, and it was pretty sweet. We only saw two trains the whole time we were hiking by the tracks, and we were completely safe from them. So unless it is the weekend, or we're going to a different crag. we'll be hiking in through the tunnels. 

Snoozing at the Makinodromo.

I was feeling pretty tired once we finished our hike in. So when I finished climbing the warm up route, I decided to take a nap. So I lay out my pack, and put on my puffy coat and slept for about an hour, maybe more. It was really nice to get some rest and I woke up feeling much better and very refreshed. 

After the nap and some food and water, I watched some sending by Aaron who onsighted a 7a+ (5.12a) then it was my turn to climb again. I got on a climb called Life is Sweet (6c or 5.11b) and I flashed it with a little beta from the boys! It was the most incredible climb I have done to date, and my first lead of the grade! It entailed pulling on to the wall and then climbing up this crazy hanging tufa! Once on the tufa you continued up and laybacked it through the next clip and then traversed out to the right to get some really nice pocketed climbing. The moves were all pretty big up there, but the holds were all good, and it felt so nice to be up there! The limestone here is so cool (this is my first time climbing it) and I think I could grow to really love this type of climbing! 

That was my last climb for the day because I am pretty tired, but Matt and Aaron climbed for another couple of hours with more onsights and Matt almost sending a 7c+ (5.13a). We are going to go back there again tomorrow. There are a lot of other routes that look really incredible and I think I might even get my first 5.12 if I try hard enough!! Crushing! I am really excited about being here! I've got another 10 or 11 days of climbing (we'll rest for two or three of those days) and there are so many crags it is hard to choose where to go. This looks like it has some of the coolest lines on it though, so we are all pretty psyched to spend another day or two or three there! 

So it looks like all of my training has paid off. I felt really solid on that climb today and really enjoyed it a lot. I feel comfortable on lead, my head is very calm while I am up there, and my body just feels strong in general, which can never hurt in this sport. We'll see what the rest of the trip has in store, and if today is any indication of how it is going to go there will be a lot more sending to tell about!! 

Anxiety and Spain!

In a little less than four hours I am going to be getting on a plane and beginning my journey to Spain. This is going to be my first trip there since I was 16 and I am so excited to be able to share it with both Matt and Aaron. This is also my first international climbing trip, so I am doubly excited!

The past few weeks have been pretty rough. I have dealt with an anxiety disorder for nearly five years now, and for some reason in the past two months it has gotten completely out of control. I was having upwards of 20-30 attacks a day and they were even keeping me up at night. After Matt left it got to the point where I couldn't handle them anymore, and I did something I hadn't done before. I reached out for help. This was something I'd always been scared to do for fear that I would find myself alone and wondering what to do next. But instead of being alone, I was suddenly surrounded by two of my closest friends with thier love and support. I went to my doctor and got an ssri to help me rebalance the imbalance in my brain, and today I can honestly say that I feel really good!

With some work and the continued support of the ones I love, I think I will be much better in the coming months! It feels really good to make it through entire days without one anxiety attack, and I look forward to keeping it that way!

That said, I am also really excited that I get to see Matty tomorrow! It has been three weeks now, and it is going to feel so good to have his arms around me again. I've been packed for a couple of days now, just waiting for today to come so I could fly away to see my baby! From the reports he's given me the climbing is incredible and the weather forecast looks so good for!! 70 degrees and sunny! And with any luck it will be full blown spring when we get back in two weeks (good luck right?)

Anyway, I will be updating this while I am on my trip! I look forward to sharing all of the adventures to come!

Hasta Luego!